SS-11: Women Dressing Women: Celebrating Turn-of-the-Century Women Designers
SS-11: Women Dressing Women: Celebrating Turn-of-the-Century Women Designers
Delving into these designers not only offers insights into their contributions to the fashion world but also empowers us to appreciate the meaning behind clothes—a journey of pride & reverence.
This past week, I had the opportunity to visit New York and explore the "Women Dressing Women" exhibition at The Metropolitan Museum of Art. This exhibition is a significant milestone in the museum's history as it marks the first time delving deeply into the world of women designers from the late nineteenth century to contemporary times.
In this article, I aim to highlight the groundbreaking contributions of five female European designers who influenced the fashion scene at the turn of the 20th century with innovation, creativity, and artistry. They serve as a testament to the profound impact clothing can have, radiating timeless values of pride and honor.
Let's begin by providing some context.
In French and European fashion centers, the right of women to dress women was a slowly earned privilege. Male tailors dominated the industry until the advocacy of Parisian seamstresses established the first French guild for women dressmakers in 1675. European women continued to fight for expanded opportunities in the field. By the start of the nineteenth century, the guild system was abolished entirely; this deregulation and the appeal of fashion as one of the few trades available to women catalyzed a rise in female dressmakers, milliners, and seamstresses.
JEANNE VICTORINE MARGAINE- LACROIX (French 1868-1930) A talented artist and couturier, Jeanne Margaine-Lacroix, assumed the direction of Masion Margaine following her mother’s death in 1899. Remember, during the 1880s, most women wore constrictive dresses, tight sleeves, corsetry, and large bustles. Her designs were cutting-edge. Among the house’s most notable innovations were “Tanagreenne” dresses and “Sylphide” robes, both inspired by ancient sources and sought to create natural silhouettes unconstrained from corsetry. They often paired with bespoke undergarments that eliminated boning and incorporated front-lacing and elastic-knit textiles.
MADELEINE VIONNET (French 1876-1975) She opened her couture house in 1912, establishing herself as one of fashion's most influential and technically innovative designers. Her sophisticated taste resonated across every aspect of her business, from her elegant garments to the design of the couture showrooms. This iconic dress of ivory silk and gold metal crepe represents a modern approach to classically influenced design, adopting the decorative Greek language of vase painting and utilizing pattern and cut to achieve an elegant equilibrium between positive and negative space.
JEANNE HAVET (French 1860-1948) After working for other dressmakers in France, Jeanne Havet began designing as Madame Havet in the late 19th century, building solid relationships with American retailers. She became the director at Maison Agnes around 1907 and remained dedicated to the house throughout her career. Her name was included in the house advertising and on the label (something rare during this time). This speaks to her ability to bring prestige to the brand, reflecting the status gained during her earlier solo career. Exemplifying her influence, garments like this evening ensemble showcase exquisite embroidery and refined color combinations, serving as timeless reminders of her creative power and lasting impact on the fashion landscape.
MARIA NINA RICCI (Italian 1883-1970) Like many of her peers, Nina Ricci entered fashion early in life. She began training in Italy at just twelve and, at fourteen, moved to Paris, where she steadily worked her way up the ranks at several houses. In 1908, she landed at Raffin and remained there for over twenty years, eventually becoming a partner. After Raffin’s closure, Ricci founded her eponymous house in 1932. Unlike contemporaries like Gabrielle Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, who thrived on publicity and innovation, Ricci relied on her understated approach and steadfast comprehension of her client’s needs.
JEANNE LANVIN (French 1867-1946) Jeanne Lanvin established a Parisian millinery label in 1889 without financial assistance. The lore of her fashion house largely centers around her daughter, Marguerite di Pietro, who owned this evening gown. Lanvin captured the eye of her millinery customers with her designs for the young Marguerite, which led to the inauguration of a children’s department. Expanding into women’s dress by 1909, she quickly rose to the highest ranks of fashion with widely published style women by a highly visible clientele. The longevity of the Lanvin brand and the scale of the house activities attest to this accomplished designer and businesswoman's dedication, innovation, and drive.
In conclusion, the "Women Dressing Women" exhibition is a testament to the remarkable journey of female designers throughout history—the examples highlighted above show how these visionary women have left an indelible mark on the fashion landscape. I can see women wearing all of these creations today!
As we reflect on their enduring legacy, let us continue to celebrate and honor their contributions, recognizing the power of creativity, innovation, and resilience in shaping our collective style narrative and fostering not only a love for fashion but the profound values we project when we dress.
If you can visit this exhibit, I highly recommend it before it closes on March 10th. However, if you cannot attend, you can explore the exhibition further through this link.
So glad I caught this article since I missed the exhibit. Thank you!