SS 37: Black as a Strategic Choice
For decades, black has been the signature of powerhouse women—commanding, refined, and effortlessly in control.
It exudes sophistication with an edge, shifting fluidly between authority and intrigue. Fashion and color scholars have long explored its magnetic pull, revealing a shade that speaks of wealth, power, sensuality, mystery, mourning, and even defiance.
But is it always the best choice?
In today’s corporate world, can a powerful woman leader wear too much black—or does she risk fading into the background, sending the wrong message or even feel monotonous?
Let me take you on a journey through history, unraveling black’s evolution in the Western world and the shifting power it has carried over the centuries—so you can decide for yourself if black is truly the right choice for you.
The Power of Black
The Middle Ages (476–1450) was a time when black wasn’t just a color—it was a privilege. A shade of power, mystery, and exclusivity, reserved for the wealthiest elite. Most people weren’t just choosing not to wear black; they weren’t allowed to.
Sumptuary laws dictated who could wear certain fabrics and colors, and black was as restricted as the deepest crimson or the brightest gold.
It was incredibly expensive and difficult to achieve, requiring a meticulous dyeing process that took several days and involved overdyeing woad and madder—two vegetal dyes that often produced only murky, uneven shades, far from the deep black we know today.
Philip the Good: Dressing for Power
One of the earliest and most striking examples of wearing black to make a statement was Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy (1396–1467). After his father was murdered in 1419, Philip rejected the opulent, brightly colored clothing favored by European royalty and instead adopted black as his signature shade.
But his choice wasn’t just about grief—it was a calculated move.
His black gowns were anything but simple—rich velvets, intricate embroidery, and accessories like poulaines (exceedingly narrow, pointed shoes). I imagine only Sarah Jessica Parker can wear them without injury. His attire made it clear: this was no ordinary mourning dress.
In a court still awash with color, Philip stood out in a sea of excess. His black attire signaled power, endurance, and unwavering control. He wasn’t just a duke—he was the duke, and his influence extended far beyond his territories. Naturally, others followed, and black began its ascent as the color of both mourning and might.
In the early 16th century, everything changed. Spanish explorers in Mexico discovered Indian logwood, a tree that would revolutionize the dyeing process.
The logwood also grows in Central America, The Dominican Republic, Venezuela, Brazil, the Guyannas, Madagascar, and India. When its chips were boiled, they produced a rich, saturated black—far more intense and lasting than anything seen before!
Black as Authority: Catherine de’ Medici’s Strategy
In the 16th century, mourning was not just an emotional state—it was a social obligation. Widowed women of nobility were expected to wear black for up to four years, a visual declaration of their grief and devotion to the deceased. But for Queen Catherine de’ Medici (1519–1589), black became more than just a symbol of loss—it became a tool of power.
When she lost her husband, King Henry II of France, in 1559, Catherine did what was expected—she wore black. But long after the traditional mourning period ended, she refused to shed the color, making it clear she wasn’t just a grieving widow—she was a ruler in her own right.
In France, where women couldn’t rule outright (unlike Elizabeth I in England), Catherine had to be strategic. Black became her visual anchor—serious, pious, immovable. To heighten the effect, she surrounded herself with her famed Flying Squadron—ladies-in-waiting dressed in dazzling colorful fashion, ensuring all eyes were drawn to her dark, commanding presence.
Black Expands Its Reach
Over the next two centuries, the color black continued to grow in popularity, crossing social classes and taking on new meanings. It became the color of solemnity and devotion—worn by mourners, monks, and magistrates—while also symbolizing modesty in servant uniforms.
By the 19th century, it had solidified its place as the color of formality and social standing, from Victorian mourning veils to the impeccably tailored coats of dignified gentlemen. Yet, it wasn’t until the 1920s that black shed its associations with restraint, stepping into a bold, modern identity—one that would redefine fashion forever.
Coco Chanel and the Birth of Modern Black
Gabrielle Chanel redefined black as the ultimate symbol of effortless sophistication. In the 1920s, she introduced the little black dress, a revolutionary concept in fashion that stripped away excess and embraced simplicity.
Chanel’s vision was simple: a garment any woman could wear, anywhere. The little black dress was accessible yet elegant—versatile enough for work, a stroll, or an evening event.
For Chanel, black wasn’t just stylish—it was strategic.
She believed it revealed a woman’s radiance by eliminating distractions, allowing her essence to shine. "Before me, no one would have dared dress in black," she once declared, underscoring the boldness of her vision.
Chanel knew black was a canvas, not a limitation. An all-black ensemble could transform with the right accessories—a string of pearls for elegance, a brooch for distinction, stacked bracelets for modernity, or a hat for a touch of intrigue. Each detail redefined the look, proving that black was never just one thing—it was whatever the woman wearing it wanted it to be.
Chanel’s deep connection to black was personal. After losing her mother, she was raised in an orphanage by Catholic nuns, whose austere black habits left an imprint on her design philosophy.
But beyond symbolism, black also happened to suit her perfectly. With her jet-black hair and striking features, she instinctively understood color harmony—how certain shades enhance natural coloring. While her signature palette included white, beige, gold, and red, black remained her favorite. It was timeless, effortless, and most importantly, it worked for her.
Black in the Modern Era: Power Dressing and Authority
Chanel may have given black its place in high fashion, but the real takeover happened in the second half of the 20th century. By the 1980s, black became synonymous with power dressing—the structured silhouettes, sharp blazers, and commanding presence of women entering executive spaces.
In a corporate world dominated by men, black provided an armor of authority.
Hollywood reinforced this shift. Think of Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), where Audrey Hepburn’s Givenchy-designed little black dress became the epitome of elegance. Or the 1980s and 1990s, where black-clad power women—from Jil Sander’s minimalist suits to Donna Karan’s sleek workwear—defined success.
In boardrooms, black meant business.
The Nuance of Black Today: When It Works—And When It Doesn’t
The corporate world has evolved, and so has the role of black. While it remains a go-to for its authority and polish, too much black can sometimes have the opposite effect—muting your presence rather than amplifying it.
Not all blacks are created equal.
The wrong shade—whether too cool or too warm—can drain your complexion, making you appear tired rather than commanding.
Fabric matters, too—cheap black can look flat and lifeless, while rich textures (silk, velvet, fine wool) elevate its depth and sophistication.
Black as a Strategic Choice: Is it Working for You?
When I work with my clients—powerful, accomplished women navigating high-stakes leadership roles—the question of wearing black comes up often.
Is black authoritative? Yes. Does it communicate polish and confidence? Absolutely. But does it work for everyone? Not always.
I always ask my clients to consider:
Does black enhance or drain my natural coloring? For Coco Chanel, with her jet-black hair, it was a perfect match. For some, black adds gravitas and sharpens their presence. For others, it dulls their features and overpowers them—I know firsthand that it doesn’t work for my complexion, my gravitas and my signature style.
Does an all-black outfit align with my leadership brand?
Do I want to be seen as approachable and dynamic, or as commanding and serious? Is there an alternative—and am I open to it?
What message am I sending—and is it the one I want to be known for?
Does black truly make me feel powerful and set me apart, or is it just a default? Many women wear black because it feels safe, not because it’s the best choice for them.
Beyond Black: The Power of Intentional Dressing
Wearing black—or any color—is not simply about putting on an outfit; it’s about crafting a visual narrative. Your clothing is an extension of your leadership identity. Whether it’s the traditional authority of black or the boldness of color woven into a signature look, every choice carries weight.
The most compelling leaders understand this: style is not an afterthought—it’s a strategy. And strategy is what sets apart the good from the unforgettable.
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So interesting and inspiring, Susana! Great article!