SS-12: Aris Apfel: 102 Shades of Style
Aris Apfel passed away on March 4th at the age of 102. Until her final days, she remained true to her distinctive style, unapologetically expressing herself with a unique sense of fashion.
A Brief History:
Apfel's grandfather had been a master tailor in Russia; her father, Samuel Barrel, supplied mirrors to savvy decorators; her chic mother, Sadye (nee Asofsky), had a fashion shop. They lived in rural Astoria, in the Queens borough of New York, where Iris was born on March 1, 2024.
As a child, Iris's treat was a weekly subway trip to Manhattan to explore its shops, her favorites being the junk emporia of Greenwich Village. During the Depression, all her family could sew, drape, glue, paint, and otherwise create the look of a room or a person on a budget of cents – the best education.
She studied art history at New York University and qualified to teach briefly in Wisconsin before fleeing to New York to work as a copywriter for Women’s Wear Daily. Furniture and fabrics were in short supply during and after the Second World War, and Iris began to earn a living by sourcing antiques and textiles; if she could not find them, she could make or fake them cheaply.
In 1948, she married Carl Apfel, and they became a decorating team: He had the head for business, and she had the eye. Unable to find cloth appropriate to a period decor, Iris adapted a design from an old piece and had it woven in a friend's family mill. She and Carl then set up Old World Weavers in 1952, commissioning traditional makers around the globe. Old World Weavers discreetly refurbished the White House under nine presidents, grand hotels, and private houses before the Apfels sold the company in 1992.
In 2005, her life took a turn. She came to notoriety after becoming the first non-fashion designer featured in an exhibit at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and a book based on her exhibition, Rara Avis (Rare Bird) of Fashion. In her 80s and 90s, Iris was back in as much full-time employment as she could manage.
She graced the covers of renowned publications like Dazed and Confused while juggling roles as a designer and window display design consultant at Bergdorf Goodman. In 2018, at 96, she inspired a line of Barbie dolls mirroring her fashion sense. The following year, at 97, she signed a modeling contract with IMG. At 100, she collaborated with H&M for a fashion line, and her influence extended into beauty campaigns, including a collaboration with Ciaté London.
What set Iris apart?
Apfel's signature style had key elements, including a vibrant color palette and layers of jewelry, especially wrists full of bangles (Bakelite, bejeweled, and everything in between), often reaching up to her elbow. Also, her oversized, owl-like eyeglasses, paired with a bold red lip are part of her brand.
Her mastery lay in combining fabrics, colors, textures, and sizes into ensembles that genuinely reflected her personality. Iris approached dressing as a form of storytelling, infusing each outfit with unique narratives, making every day a celebration of life. She was unapologetic and passionate about her style choices, making her unmistakable one-of-a-kind.
Reflecting on Iris's impact, fashion designer Donna Karan credited Iris for pushing her outside her fashion boundaries: "She had a passion for fashion like no other person. If I had to name the best-dressed woman in the world, it would be Iris. From head to toe with color, jewelry, and the most beautiful little details, no one understood style like she did. She inspired me to do color and more color instead of my usual black and white.”
Iris's Life Motto
Iris never thought age was a stop to having and expressing her style. Here are some of her most famous quotes regarding fashion. I invite you to ponder on her wisdom and consider how it resonates with your style brand and fashion journey.
On Style
“Color can raise the dead."
“I don't dress to be stared at, I dress for myself.”
"Throughout history, clothes represented who you were; they are a great vehicle for explaining who you are."
"The world is not black and white; there are lots of shades of grey."
“Life is grey and dull, so you might as well have a little fun when you dress."
On Self-Discovery and Growth
“Great personal style is an extreme curiosity about yourself’.”
"I don't see anything wrong with a wrinkle. It's kind of a badge of courage."
“You don’t find out who you are unless you work at it.”
"You can't try to be somebody you're not; that's not style. If someone says, 'Buy this — you'll be stylish,' you won't be stylish because you won't be you. You have to learn who you are first, and that's painful."
If you don't learn constantly, you don't grow, and you will wither. Too many people wither on the vine. Sure, it gets a little harder as you get older, but new experiences and new challenges keep it fresh.”
Apfel shattered numerous molds. Maria Shriver says, “Wow! What a truly remarkable life Iris Apfel lived!” She truly did it all. She was a businesswoman, a fashion model, a fashion icon, a college professor, a star of a documentary, and a Barbie doll! Her legacy will continue to inspire generations serving as a poignant reminder to champion originality over conformity. Apfel's life demonstrates that it's never too late or old to express one's unique style. She is a testament to the enduring power of creativity and vitality. Remarkably, Iris left behind unfinished business—a book about her life and significant moments. "Colorful" will be released in August 2024, promising yet another vibrant chapter in her extraordinary journey and indelible imprint.